Ernad to teakland.. Part-1

"...was thining of gng to the teakland" this message from Vibin got me on the roll. I had been planning to visit Nilambur eversince I saw the first photographs of this line on IRFCA. Although I had been to this place by road a few times (just passed through on my way to Bangalore), I never had the opportunity to try the railway service. The Nilambur Road-Shoranur railway line connects Shoranur in Palakkad district to Nilambur in Malappuram district. Nilambur is renowned for its teak plantations, and this was the very reason for constructing this 66km long railway line. The line was completed and opened in phases in 1927. The line was later closed in 1941 during the World War. Due to public protests, this line was relaid. The Shoranur-Angadipuram section was reopened in 1953, and the remaining section in 1954.

The line passes through a scenic section - paddy fields, teak forests, looming hills, rivers, etc. The line was badly neglected by authorities until recently, when the Nilambur-Mysore Railway Action Council took up the cause and got more trains to the section. Some time in the late 1990s, the railways had ordered the closure of this line due to poor revenues. However, the section now has a totally different tale to say. This section sees 6 pairs of passenger trains and one pair of express train daily - up from a paltry two pairs about decade back. The daily collection from this section has also gone up over 10 times. The section has grades in places, and the mps in this section does not exceed 75kmph anywhere. The last stretch from Thuvvur to Nilambur has the lowest maximum speed.

Sometime in 2008, I had made exhaustive plans to visit this line - but rain washed down all my plans, and the journey was put off. The same repeated in 2009. The number of trains in this section kept increasing from time to time, and planning a journey became easier. The message from Vibin was the last needed encouragement. Finally, I drew plans to join Vibin at Shoranur. I messaged Jayasankar, who replied positive. So finally, it was the three of us traveling by this line. Our trip was planned for February 10, 2012. A day prior to the journey came another stumbling block - a harthal in Thrissur district! I was determined to make it this time, and I quickly redrew my plans - I decided to take the Ernad Express to Shoranur, instead of the Shoranur passenger as planned earlier. Since the Hartal begins at 0600hrs, I left home around 0545 hours - crawled my way to Ernakulam. The train was only at 0815, and it takes just an hour from my home to Ernakulam by car. After a royal crawl, I made it to Ernakulam by 0720hrs.Headed straight to the ticket counter, and took a 2S Unreserved M/E ticket to Shoranur. Next on the agenda was to have my breakfast. Had a leisurely breakfast, and got on to the platform sharp by 0800hrs. The train (16606 Nagercoil Mangalore Ernad Express) came in by around 0815 with Golden Rock WDM2 #16878 doing the honours.

I got into CC and upgraded my ticket - there were lots of takers for AC Chair Car in this train, and the TTE had hell of a time writing Excess Fare Tickets! The train left Ernakulam around 0830hrs. I had an aisle seat - the coach (10150) was built in December 2010 by ICF, Chennai. The seats were awful - cushioning was really poor, and the contour in the headrest was painfully hard. The train has a non-stop run from Ernakulam to Thrissur, and hence it ambled along at most stations at full speed. I had a power nap, and later spent time reading newspaper. The run slowed down from Chalakudy onwards - the Ernakulam-Shoranur passenger was just running ahead, and we had to stop at every station for the passenger train to clear the section. We made it to Thrissur by 0940 - the station was heavily crowded, thanks to the hartal. The run from Thrissur to Shoranur was decent - we overtook the passenger at Mulagunnathukavu. Made a brief halt at Shoranur home, for the Ernakulam bound Mangala express to cross over. We made it to Shoranur by 1030hrs. Vibin had already reached there - he purchased tickets for the two of us, and was waiting on the platform by then.

We headed straight to the refreshment room on Platform 2/3 to get our lunch parceled - while I got food from the Veg Refreshment Room, Jay & Vibin got their food from the Non-Veg Refreshment room. The VRR at Shoranur serves some good food - the food this time was not exceptional, though. While we got our food, the Ernakulam-Shoranur passenger rolled in to Platform 3 with WDM3A #14046 of Ernakulam doing the honours. I was expecting this rake to head to Nilambur - but that wasn't the case. While we were contemplating which coach to sit in, they announced that the Nilambur passenger would depart from Platform 1. The rake which just came in from Ernakulam was taken to the coaching depot for maintenance. In the meantime, the Coimbatore-Mangalore Fast Passenger pulled out (a WDM3D of Erode was the power). We headed to Platform 1 to find our rake already there - there was a loco at the Palakkad end. We did not check the loco, but directly headed to a coach which appeared close to empty - we got window seats and we settled down. I wanted to see the loco being brought in, but it was already coupled by the time me and Jay headed towards it. It was WDM3A #14046 of Ernakulam (the same loco that brought in the passenger from Ernakulam.

Flag exchange while leaving from a station en-route..

Our train: 56616 Shoranur Jn - Nilambur Road Passenger, had about 12 coaches (including the two mandatory SLRs). We were in the fourth coach from the loco. We started off perfectly on time from there - the train takes a "dedicated" line right from Shoranur station. The line runs parallel to the Kozhikode line for some distance and then branches off towards Nilambur. The Nilambur line is surrounded by Teak plantations right from the point it veers off from the main-line. We reached our first station in no time - Vadanamkurushshi. This station has been remodeled recently - it does not retain the charm of a way-side halt station anymore. Its all concrete platforms now. Stations came and went at quick pace. Our coach had more than one flat wheel, and it made hell lot of noise. At one station, Vallappuzha or Kulukallur, Vibin spotted a small countryside teastall - and he kept reiterating his wish to have tea there! The stations were all halt stations - the train just stops and goes.

The crossing at Angadipuram

We pulled into Angadippuram (AAM) at around 1239 (perfectly on time). We had a crossing here - and the crossing train (56616) was yet to reach there. We were taken on Platform 2 (loop line) at AAM - the station is being remodeled, and the platform was very narrow. I and Jay rushed to the loco to catch the crossing - we walked a bit ahead, towards the starter on the main line. Our pairing train came in with WDM3A #16479R of Ernakulam doing the honours. As soon as the pairing train came in, both us rushed back to our coach. Both the trains were cleared simultaneously. Angadipuram has two platforms and also has a siding for FCI. Reportedly, the station has another loop line earlier, which is now being remodeled. The train slows down after AAM (not much) - the section was all dry, but with teak trees all around. It was very dusty, and standing at the door was more or less impossible. Almost all the stations in this route were being "modernised" - they just lost their branch line charms. The run beyond was eventless - the three of us were engrossed in discussions about various aspects of railways in Kerala, while the train rumbled through the arid countryside.

After arriving at Nilambur Road

The next big station on the route is Vaniyambalam, which is also a crossing station. The train crawled after Vaniyambalam, and pulled into Nilambur earlier than its scheduled time of 1350hrs. As the train emptied, I was awed by the number of passengers who got off! Considering the fact that this is a branch line, the train had very good patronage. Nilambur is a typical branch line station - a low level platform, with a small station building. The station has two loop lines and one main line running through (terminating at the other end of the station). One of those loop lines were laid in 1954 - no chances has been made to that line since then! The station still has Upper Quadrant Semaphore signalling. The points are all set manually. There is a very beautiful signalling cabin at the Shoranur end of the station. Sadly, the semaphores and the signalling cabin are on their last days...

Our loco being shunted, to take charge of the return run.

In the mean time, WDM3A #14046 got detatched from our train, and reversed to take charge of the rake for our return journey. WDM3A #14051 of Ernakulam was lying dead on the other loop line, with the rake of Rajya Rani Express coupled to it. The loco of our train rushed out of the station, went up ahead, returned and was coupled to our rake, all set for the return journey... (to be continued)

Why this kolaveri.. adi??

January 19, 2012: After a thoroughly contented day - busfanning and railfanning at Varkala, in Trivandrum district, Kerala, I was waiting on the platform for my return link - the Trivandrum-Ernakulam Vanchinad express. Vanchinad is now only a shade of its real self - a prestigious train in the past. Varkala has two platforms, and my train was to arrive on the main platform - there was one really good refreshment stall here. My train was to arrive at 1819. It was one really tiring day, and I settled under a fan waiting for my train to come - the train came in more or less on time, behind one of those red coloured locos (I did not bother reading its road number).

My coach - C1 - came right in front of me. I was the only passenger to board this coach from Varkala (VAK). As soon as I reached my seat, the TTE came and checked my ticket. By now the train started moving as well. This was a 2001, ICF built coach - I had traveled in the same train, same coach, same seat earlier in the day as well. The AC was chilling - there were hardly about 25 passengers in the coach. Vanchinad does not have any onboard catering - for some obscure reason. Passengers have to depend on stations to get any food. I got my dinner at Kollam (the Veg Canteen at Kollam makes some really good food - its a treat for railway food lovers). I slept soon after the train left Kollam - I usually find it really hard to sleep in a CC coach, especially if its not a window seat.

I woke up at Kayamkulam (on receiving a phone call), and slept soon after the train left Kayamkulam. I was waken up again as the train stopped at Thiruvalla - the passenger who had the window seat arrived - I was on the aisle seat. At this station, a family got in - a lady and her husband, with two kids (the eldest of them was not more than 5 years old). Their seat was right behind mine. The train starts moving soon - the WAP4 was showing its mettle everywhere, but the takeoffs were really soft. As the train picks up speed, I slowly fall back into sleep - I got up at 3:30 in the morning, and I was sleep-starved badly. Just as I start sleeping, the kid behind my seat starts singing... "why this kolaveri, kolaveri,... adi..." and for the background score, the kid bangs the food trays!

The kid would start singing the minute I close my eyes... "why this kolaveri adi..." banging the food trays for BGM. The lack of sleep, and loud singing was bewildering me.. I had the same question for the kid.. "why this kolaveri di???". By now, passengers sitting around look at the parents - the kid was banging the food trays to glory. The dad stops the kid.. we'll bang the trays after 10 minutes. OMG! So this BGM would continue all the way till Ernakulam. I was determined to sleep no matter what, and I did. I slept soon after Changanassery and woke up hearing a commotion in the coach. People were all pulling out their baggages from the overhead rack - the time was around 2150. I wondered if we had reached Ernakulam already, and I got back to my senses. The train slowly pulled in to a station.. Mulanthuruthy. Thankfully, the kids and their parents got off here - so I was back to peaceful sleep well before the train left the station.

This time, I slept all the way to Ernakulam Junction. I just woke up as the train entered Ernakulam Junction (Platform 4) - the clock read 22:20 - perfectly on time! The WAP4 is surely a workhorse - a beast. But its a scare for railfans in Kerala - every train is worked by one of these stupid looking red skinned, yellow belted horses. (Sorry to WAP4 fans)..

Coming back to the kids.. one of those kids shouting out that he/she was hungry (I was so asleep that i did not notice if the kid was a "he" or a "she"). The dad pulls out a bag, and mom feeds the kid the ultimate food - Lays chips! I was awestruck at the parent's capabilities - first encouraging the kid to wake up the entire coach with his/her loud music accompanied by BGM, and now feeding a small kid with Lays chips!! Modern moms are so modern, you see... Why this kolaveri.... di??

A short Rajdhani trip

July 15, 2011, 17:30hrs: After a tiring day spotting buses, in intermitted rains, I slowly lug towards Trivandrum Central Railway station. It was just days after a terrorist attack in Mumbai - the security at the station was on high alert. My baggage was scanned on entry - there were dozens of arm wielding cops staring at me while entering the station. With all my energy drained, I headed straight to the AC Waiting room - but the room was hot and humid! I took a seat, and caught up a few winks. The PA system was blurting out advertisements before each announcement - it was irritating to the core.

My train was shunted in at around 1830. The shining Red-and-Grey rake looked elegant at the first sight. On close inspection, the coach surface was badly wavy, poor paint job, exposed welds and what not. Clearly disappointed by what I saw, I decided to head towards the loco.The platform was full of cops (RPF and State Police), plus there were lots of guys who looked like railway officials. The train had its full complement of 8 AC-3-Tier, 6 Ac 2-Tier, 1 AC Pantry Car and 1 AC First, totaling 18 coaches (including 2 EOGs). The loco was about to be coupled by the time I reached there - no idea what loco shunted in the rake.

The loco assigned to work the train was WDP3A #15518 of Golden Rock. I roamed around till the loco was coupled. There was heavy police presence everywhere. After a while, I decided to head to my coach - at the rear end of the formation. I reached my coach - B2, 10124/C - after walking the length of about 15 coaches. The load was pretty decent despite being a working day - most tickets were to BRC and beyond as seen from the charts. My coach had a few reservations to ERS (including me) - those seats were probably having onward reservations from there. My seat was #7, a Side Lower Berth.

My first impression about the interiors were good - the coach was already cool, and fairly clean. There was no table for Side Lower/Upper passengers, while the 6-seater coupe got fixed fibre plastic trays (unlike the collapsible wooden table seen in other 3A coaches). The roof was classy - the ugly looking vents were absent, instead there were sleek looking panels. The lamps were concealed. The train started off perfectly on time (@1915 hrs) with the characteristic CBC jerk. The WDP3A did an awesome job picking up speed as we crossed Trivandrum Pettah (TVP). The transition kick (so typical of an ALCo) was felt perfectly in my coach. The TTE came around soon after we crossed Kochuveli - the TTE was a young chap, based in NR. He was particular about seeing the ID card for e-Tickets. A passenger in the coupe next to me made it a scene when asked for an ID card - he was acting as if he was some well-known person who gets insulted on being asked for an identity proof.

Meanwhile, the catering attendant came around and asked for meal preference - I asked for Veg. My neighbours in the coach were heading to Nizamuddin, after visiting "Padamnabh Swamy Mandir" in Trivandrum. With the recent discovery of treasure at the temple (Padmanabha Swamy Temple), a lots of tourists are now showing up here. While they were busy discussing about the temple, occasionally making fun of Kerala's customs, the train crawled into Kollam, for its newly introduced commercial halt. There were hardly any passengers on the platform while this train crawled in. The halt was very brief, and we departed from Kollam about 10 minutes late. Just as the train started off, the Attendant came around with the dinner tray. Tomato soup with butter and soup sticks came in first, followed by the main course. Main course had rotis, a paneer dish (Paneer mutter, IIRC), rice, dal, curd, pickle and salt. Water bottles were distributed earlier. Dinner was followed by a cup of ice cream.

There isn't much to talk about the dinner - the quantity was too small for a food lover like me. Food was tasty enough - I have a particular like for railway food. Dinner trays were cleared quickly. Since most of the coach had long distance passengers, lights were going off around the coach. People quickly retired to their berths. The attendant came around to ask options for the next days' breakfast (veg/non-veg). I was getting off at Ernakulam the same night - I informed the same. The train pulled in for its next halt - Alappuzha. No body got in here as well. We were running about 15 minutes late now. We were pulled up at Cherthala for a crossing (TVC Division has the worst section controllers one can every see - a bunch of sadists who love making delayed trains further late, irrespective of the trains' priorities).

I am not sure of what train we crossed at Cherthala, but we surely lost about 5 minutes in the process. The LPs let the beast lose after Cherthala - the train swayed merrily, giving passengers a jolt once in a while. Every slowdown and pick up was felt in the coach - the famed CBC kick continues with all advancements in technology. By now the coach was dark - all lights were off. I remained in my Side lower berth - drew the curtains and kept reviewing some pics I had taken during the day. Sighting Aroor bridge was a signal that we were nearing Ernakulam. The train pulled into Platform 1 of Ernakulam at 2230, delayed by about 10 minutes now. The LPs were letting the beast lost whenever possible, and that helped us regain some lost time.

A lot of crowd was waiting for this train at Ernakulam - If only the Duronto could match the Rajdhani's speed and timings, it would've been successful. I made a quick exit from Ernakulam station, took my car and rushed out. Just as I crossed the Ernakulam North Flyover, I saw the Rajdhani sneaking below it. Later, I crossed the same train at Edappally Level cross - the Rajdhani was either too slow, or I was too fast for the Rajdhani :P

Some notes: The finish of the coaches was awful - bad sheet metal works, and visible welding joints. The paint quality was also awful. The interiors were good - the overall feel was distinct from the regular ICF/RCF coaches. The ride quality was better as well - except for the irritating CBC jerks. My journey was too short for me to comment on the quality of onboard services - but it certainly is irritating to see those catering guys coming with their caps begging for tips. Most often those goon looking chaps come around forcing passengers to pay through their nose - for the "service" these chaps provide. At the end of the day, the Rajdhani is an "experience" all together.

I'd give the train a 9 on 10, punctuality a 9.5/10 and service 7/10 (reducing it for the tendency to beg).